Wheel accessories

Screws are selected according to the following criteria:

1. According to the rim mounting plane.

There are 2 types of sockets in the rim: * conical
* spherical


The bolt should have the same support as the socket in the rim (spherical socket - spherical propeller, conical seat - conical propeller). It is difficult to assess with a naked eye what type of socket is in the rim. However, there is a very easy way to check it. Just pick up a simple, rigid object (e.g. wire, pencil, toothpick ...) and hold it in the socket as shown above. If the object adheres to the rim along its entire length - we are dealing with a conical seat. Otherwise there will be clearance and then we deal with a spherical seat.

If we want to screw the rim with a screw with an inappropriate support, it will fix the rim only in points and destroy the rim seat. What's worse, however, can lead to the wheel spinning.

2. According to pitch and thread diameter.

Examples of diameter and thread pitch designation:

* M12 x 1.25
* M12 x 1.5
* M14 x 1.5


The wheel hub is responsible for the pitch and thread diameter of the screws. This means that regardless of whether we have steel or aluminum rims, original or not, we will screw them with screws of the same diameter and thread pitch (only the length and type of the footing - the cone / ball can change). To check the above parameters for our car, unscrew the old screw and measure with a caliper. The pitch and thread diameter of the screws for each car brand is also in our store - breakdown by car models.

3. By screw length. Correctly selected bolts or nuts should make a certain number of turns when tightening: * M12 x 1.25 - approx. 8 turns
* M12 x 1.5 - approx. 6.5 turns
* M14 x 1.5 - approx. 7.5 turns

We measure the length of the bolt from the cone / ball, not the whole bolt or the threaded part itself.

Too short a screw can pull the thread out of the hub or damage the screw, and in the worst case fall off the wheel. Too long a screw protrudes from the car hub and corrodes. After some time, there may be a problem with unscrewing the wheel. When screwed in too much, it rubs against the handbrake.

If you are not sure which length to choose, the best way is to measure it yourself as follows:

1) unscrew one wheel
2) measure and write the length old screw (e.g. 28 mm)
3) we put the old screw through the (old) rim
4) measure and record how much screw protrudes beyond the rim (e.g. 12 mm)
5) we take the same bolt and put it through a new rim
6) measure and record how many bolts protrude out of the rim (e.g. 5 mm)
7) to the length of the old screw we add the difference in length measured in points 4 and 6
(in our example: 28+ (12-5) = 35mm)

In this way we get the length of the bolt, which we should buy for new rims.

4. By key size.

The basic key sizes are:

* 17
* 19

Aluminum wheels often have smaller head screws than steel wheels. This is due to the limited access to the screws in the rim seat (smaller screw heads reduce the risk of scratches on the rim when unscrewing the wheel).